3D Printing Quick Tips #8 – Hammer & Ice Print Removal

3D Printing Quick Tips #8 - Hammer & Ice Print Removal



hi welcome back thanks for stopping by I want to do a quick video today just to show some other techniques of removing prints when they're stuck on the build platform now in the MakerBot replicator the sorry I'm looking over its off camera the platform is fixed inside the machine and so all this work you have to do inside the machine but on some other printers for example the metal max that I'm using the there's a removable glass plate and I have here a print which is stuck on there real well and I'll show you a couple of techniques now I've got a video which I'll link to about this cricket spatula which is a fantastic tool I use it on almost every print in combination with this printable wedge by jetty and I'll give you the link there so you can print these wedges and normally what I do is I take the spatula I find a corner I can get under if I can and then I use the wedge and place it underneath the spatula and lift the print up but sometimes there's no edge and I just can't I just can't get an edge and I know I'll ruin the tape if I try to get in there so a combination of an ice pack and some type of hammer or other other tool to knock the prints off is the way to go Elisa's works for me first thing is let the glass cool it doesn't have to be all the way but if you put ice on it when it's real hot you probably crack the glass so I let it cool at least down to maybe I don't know maybe 50 C something like that and when you take the glass off if you look in the back you can see the print you can see how it's stuck yeah it'll it'll be a different color on the spots that are not totally sealed anyhow just take that ice pack sticking on the back of the glass do that if you're on the replicator I'll take the ice pack and I use one of these soft tacks like this and just put it right down on there push it around and the idea is that you want to cool the print off at a different rate that the glass is and let that sit for a little bit and then I'll come back and I'll show you how to get them off with the hammer and the nice thing about knocking the prints off is that usually you don't damage the tape at all you have to be careful not to damage the print okay I'm doing this on the floor so I have a little bit of cushion for the glass I don't want to do it on a hard table or hard surface so this way the carpet helps the cushion a little bit I'll use one of these soft blow hammers and let's start with the sex carriage see what we get of course you can only hit it in the strong a strong part of the part there we go I've had these two parts sitting on ice for a little longer and I can tell by looking at the back they're starting to release already shouldn't take much there we go you

8 thoughts on “3D Printing Quick Tips #8 – Hammer & Ice Print Removal

  • July 5, 2019 at 3:25 pm
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    personally, I use turn a CO2 duster upside down and spray the part. Freezes the part and it pops up everytime.

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  • July 5, 2019 at 3:25 pm
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    You should make a video on dualstrusion it would me very helpful to me

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  • July 5, 2019 at 3:25 pm
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    be carefull with the "air" in the can 😀 its mostly propan/butan and explosive, if there is any spark gap in your electronics it can be a small problem:D
    for me i have a small AC relay on my ramps attached to switch a big fan for cooling down the complete printer when its finished, cooldown in less than 1minute to get the parts of the printplate
    another thing i use the soerli mirror from ikea for my hbp with 4 clips to hold it, i have 8 of them so i can easy change them after the print is finish

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  • July 5, 2019 at 3:25 pm
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    I'm 110-120 also, and enclosed of course. Sometimes during last summer my internal temps were 75C and that's when the best un-warped ex-large prints happened. When done I pull the cover a listen for the crackling while adding an air shot here and there. Like fkhg1 mine usually just lift, or click or snap off with no effort.

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  • July 5, 2019 at 3:25 pm
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    depends on your thermistor, you should try 115-120C

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  • July 5, 2019 at 3:25 pm
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    I haven't had an issue or seen any residue from canned air. Also if I clean my HBP with acetone I can't get the print off without tape damage. So I only dry wipe. I also run a very tight first layer so preheat for 20 min is a must for bed sag. So, yes, when it's still fairly hot hit the part with small shot of inverted canned air and sometimes it will pop off by itself after making the crackling sound.

    Dead blow hammers, gotta love them, 🙂

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  • July 5, 2019 at 3:25 pm
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    I'm a 'invert canned air and spray part' guy on my rep1 with ABS. It's quick and easy. btw, imho you may want to always push safety to the less experienced in life's probabilities of bad outcomes. Maybe demonstrate the hammer and glass thing with a towel between your hand and the glass. Lots of people have no idea there are different types of glass and will only remember the visual demo.

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  • July 5, 2019 at 3:25 pm
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    you should use only the glass and a little bit higher temperature on the printbed, works perfekt for me, no hammer, no tools needed, it just lifts of when the temperatur is below 80degress celsius for abs and 40 degress celsius for pla, so you dont need any tape

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